The crashing sea below in the night sounds as if a storm is raging, but the tent is eerily calm
Rain on and off in the night, but suspect a lot more on the way. The forecast looks wet, and we have 18 miles to Salcombe where, as a treat, we are booked into a B&B
First we have the problem of crossing the Erme estuary. This can be crossed within one hour of low tide, which will occur at 10.30. However, not all low tides are created equal. Today's low tide is 0.93m, whereas yesterday's was higher at 1.4m. So we need to know when the 1.4m mark will occur today
In my world this calls for a spreadsheet. Taking the high and low tide times and heights, I calculate that 1.4m will occur at 9.30 today meaning we can cross at 8.30. To build in a margin of error we agree on a 9 o'clock crossing
By 8am the promised rain has still not arrived so we pack our bags and make an early start. Maybe my 8.30 calculation is correct. As an added incentive, 6 miles on from the crossing is the ferry across the river Avon. This takes a two hour siesta in the afternoon, so we need to arrive there at 11.30.
Arriving at our first estuary at 8.30. The water is a long way out. We go for a closer look
In the end the water is below knee height, we could have crossed earlier
The rain still holds off. Lovely damp woodland smells and good paths. For some reason the colours seem more vivid on a dull and overcast day than yesterday in the sunshine
Looking across the estuary at last night's campsite: the patch of green on the centre of the picture by the edge of the low cliff
Rounding the headland, Burgh Island comes into view. It looks close, and the ferry is one mile on from it.
This being coastal walking it's a walk of steep ups and steep downs. But we're making good progress, the promised rain is holding off, the coastal flowers, thrift, bluebells, gorse, are in abundance
We arrive at Bigbury-on-Sea at low tide. According to the research I had done earlier this morning the Avon is fordable at low tide. The ease of the Erme crossing had clearly gone to our heads, so we decided to go for it
I should have planned this better. With hindsight, I should have tied my boots onto my rucksack so that I could have held both above my head. With hindsight, I should have put my down sleeping bag into the fully waterproof dry bag and the spare clothes into the bag that doubled as a mattress inflator. With hindsight, I should have put my phone into a drysack and upper body clothing also
But life is a learning journey.
Once you commence a river crossing you think that you are always past the worst of it, so you carry on. The water won't get any deeper, except that it does, and does again, and does again
Emerging on the other side, I unpack my rucksack to determine the damage. Phone has remained above the water line. My rucksack has taken in water, but sleeping bag remains dry, and dry-bag has done its job in keeping my spare clothing dry. Chris has suffered wet playing cards, and water ingress to an old power pack. I tip out the water lurking in the bottom of my rucksack and we laugh at our good fortune.
We have also saved a mile and a half of walking, and £5 each on ferry fares which will pay for a celebratory pint when we get to Salcombe
We are cold after our immersion in the water, and walk briskly towards Hope Cove where we have promised ourselves coffee and cake
This is taken at the Hope and Anchor, and we take the opportunity to spread out our wet tents around the village's street furniture
Refueled by glucose and caffeine we feel much better, we are off any time constraints, it's still not raining, and having walked this section eight years ago I know we are in for something of a treat
We are walking through a particularly picturesque stretch of coast. Quite unspoilt and undeveloped. Bluebells poking up through the grass, skylarks singing, the sea a constant presence below us. A mist descends, hiding the distant view, and forcing you to focus on the immediate surroundings
As ever on an 18 mile day the final miles seem to stretch on forever. Even when we get to Salcombe there is a long steep climb, admittedly through garlic strewn woods, to reach our B&B.
We have a simple twin room, but it seems warm, dry and therefore palatial. The kettle is boiled for a cup of tea and clothes and sleeping bags spread out to air. The aroma must be wonderful.
Showers are had, clean clothes donned, and off to explore the town. I have had recommended pubs for both beer and food, thank you Stuart
Great beer
Great food
We have survived
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